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The Journey N.B. Photo
Gallery references in square brackets. 'When John's messengers had gone, Jesus began to speak to the crowds about John: "What did you go out into the wilderness to look at? A reed shaken by the wind? " What then did you go out to see? Someone dressed in soft robes? Look, those who put on fine clothing and live in luxury are in royal palaces. "What then did you go out to see? A prophet? Yes, I tell you, and more than a prophet." ' (Luke 7:24-26) There is an element of curiosity in all of us, and when we each decided to join the Pilgrimage to the Holy Land, we all had our own reasons for going. However, upon our return, we all were changed in different ways, and hopefully for the better! Saturday 23rd May In a mood of excitement and anticipation we gathered at Our Lady's Church ready to travel to Heathrow. Fr. Michael celebrated Mass with us and began the Novena to the Holy Spirit for all in our parish. At the airport we met with four other pilgrims from London and went through all the procedures to fly by El Al to Tel Aviv, Israel.. Sunday 24th May A weary group of pilgrims arrived to travel from Ben Gurion Airport to our hotel in Tiberias. We were introduced to Amnon, our guide, and to Joseph, our coach driver. The journey passed along the Via Maris, with most of us falling in and out of sleep, and catching the explanation of the routes and places of interest, and the activities we would be taking part in. On arrival at the Hotel, which overlooked the Sea of Galilee [01], we breakfasted and rested until around 1 p.m. when we ate Lunch and then drove off to Nazareth. Here at the Annunciation Basilica we sang Salve Regina and Fr. Michael celebrated Mass with us at 3 p.m. We viewed the rock cave under the house of Mary [02] and after visiting the upper church, we came upon a wedding about to take place. We visited the church of St. Joseph, and in the crypt we were close to his workshop. Finally we visited the Greek Orthodox Church built over the well which supplied Nazareth with its water, and ran into a wedding about to begin here. Finally we returned to our hotel in Tiberias for Dinner and a peaceful chat at the edge of the Sea of Galilee. Monday 25th May We began our week with an early call, early breakfast and early departure for our visiting schedule. This became the pattern for the week! We drove off past the remains of Magdala, to the Mount of Beatitudes [03], a possible site for the Sermon on the Mount. The peace of this site was tangible. and it had a superb panoramic view of the Sea of Galilee and surrounding hills and villages. At each place of interest we paused for a reading and meditation, often finishing with a hymn. We next visited Tabgha, the site of the feeding of the 5000. Here in the Church we could see the remains of a 4th century Byzantine mosaic of bread and fishes. We prayed especially for all who had asked for our prayers. We walked to the church next door to see the rock on which Peter [04], after the Resurrection, is believed to have assured Jesus of his love - three times - the Church of Peter's Primacy - "Do you love me? Feed my lambs - Feed my sheep". We drove to Capernaum, where Fr. Michael celebrated Mass in the church over Peter's House. We later visited the site of the synagogue and here remembered the centurion who asked Jesus to cure his servant (see Matt 8:5). This centurion had helped build the synagogue in Capernaum. Then we travelled to the pier to take the boat across the Sea of Galilee. We stopped for a reading and meditation in the middle of the Sea and pondered the silence. Then we continued to the Kibbutz Ein Gev [05] for lunch at which most people enjoyed St. Peter's Fish. After lunch we drove along the Sea to pass the River Jordan and the Place of Baptism where we would renew our Baptism promises on Tuesday. Then we drove on to visit Mount Tabor, the site of the Transfiguration of Jesus. We needed a taxi to take us to the peak. From the top of the mountain we could see across the plain of Jezreel [06]. We entered the church and prayed in the open crypt which is part of the Crusader Church. We also visited the chapels dedicated one to Moses and one to Elijah. In all this day we were reaching out and touching places in which the Lord had walked and journeyed, and which countless pilgrims had trodden on in their visits over the last 2000 years. We descended the steep road by taxi. Finally we returned to the hotel in Tiberias for dinner and a visit into the town for a drink and a chat till late! Tuesday 26th May The early morning routine was beginning to be established, and having packed our cases and checking them on to the coach we left Tiberias after breakfast for Cana. The main church was in a state of renovation and so we used a small chapel, in which we recalled the wedding feast and four of our group 'remarried'! Leaving Galilee we drove to the place of Baptism where we renewed our Baptism promises whilst paddling our feet [07] - we decided against total immersion! Then it was off via the Jordan Valley to arrive at the city of Jericho possibly the oldest inhabited city in the world. After lunch, and a camel ride by the more adventurous members of the group [08], we drove out to the Mount of Temptation. Here a Greek Orthodox Monastery is precariously built into the side of the mountain [09]. Thence to the city of Jerusalem via the Judean Hills and a glimpse of the Judean Desert, with the nomadic Bedouin camps. We visited the Mount of Olives, going first to the place of the Ascension, then to the Paternoster church, and finally to celebrate Mass at Dominus Flevit (the Lord wept - "As he came near and saw the city, he wept over it," [Luke 19:41] ) at 4 p.m. Here in the chapel with the 'chalice window' we could see over Jerusalem. After Mass we walked down the hill, saying the rosary, to arrive at Gethsemane and the Church of All Nations. We would return here for Mass later in the week. We travelled to our Hotel, the Hostel for Pilgrims at the Greek Catholic Patriarchate in the Old City of Jerusalem just inside the Jaffa Gate. This was alongside the Melchite Church where liturgies are in Greek style but use Arabic. This is the main Church for Arab Christians (46,000 in the Holy Land belong to it). Later in the evening a number of the group visited a cafe for relaxation. Wednesday 27th May Following the familiar early morning routine, we left to travel to Bethlehem and the Basilica of the Nativity [10], little changed since the time of the 4th Century. There are traces of Byzantine mosaics and the Crusader paintings of saints on the pillars. Here we visited the grotto which is honoured as the birthplace of Jesus. This would have been a cave used as a storeroom for the inn, and a shelter for their animals. Other caves are part of the complex associated with the grotto and in which Saint Jerome lived whilst translating the Bible into Latin in the 4th century. We celebrated Mass here at 9 a.m. Then we visited the star marking the birthplace of Jesus and lit candles. We then travelled a little way to visit Shepherds’ Field at Beit Sahour where we recalled the Angels calling the shepherds to visit the new born, Jesus - we sang our Christmas carol. Leaving Bethlehem, we returned to the foot of the Mount of Olives to visit the Garden of Gethsemane. We visited the cave where the apostles waited whilst Jesus prayed, and spent a meditative half hour in the garden among the olive trees, some up to 2000 years old, reflecting on the events which followed the Last Supper. We then visited the Church of All Nations to see the rock on which the Lord prayed "Not my will, but thine be done." We left to visit Mount Sion, to walk up to the Upper Room, part of a Byzantine church built to commemorate the 'upper room'. We also entered the Tomb of David, the second most important sacred Jewish site. Next we walked to the Dormition Church, this was the location that Mary's death has been associated with since the 6th Century. In the crypt there was a recumbent statue of Mary and mosaics of Old Testament women, Eve, Ruth, Esther, Judith and others. Then a walk down a lane leading to the church of St. Peter in Galicantu (Cockcrow) built over the traditional site of the house of the High Priest, Caiphas, suggesting that it was here that Peter denied Jesus. We visited the rooms in which Jesus may have been held overnight after his arrest in the garden of Gethsemane - we could look down, over and across the Kidron Valley to the garden, and we walked up the steps leading to Jerusalem which date from Jesus' time. Then we walked back to our hotel in Jerusalem. After Dinner, some of the group attended a 'Son et Lumiere' held in the Citadel of David, built by Herod as a royal palace. Thursday 28th May A really early call at 5.45 a.m. in order to celebrate Mass at 7 a.m. at Calvary in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre before breakfast. We walked through the market streets to the Church, built by the Crusaders, and then up the steep steps to the Latin chapel. An inspiring moment when we participated in the Mass at the site of Jesus' crucifixion, though no singing is allowed at this altar. Afterwards we entered the Greek chapel and could reach down to touch the peak of the hill of Calvary and light candles for those we promised to pray for. We briskly visited other parts of the church, listening to the Franciscans singing early morning Mass outside the Tomb of Jesus. Then back through the now busy market streets to the hotel and breakfast. After breakfast we travelled to the Temple Mount. We passed through the security gates and entered the esplanade where we saw the Western Wall [11], the famous Jewish shrine, an open air synagogue. Here we could view the huge stones used by Herod in building the 2nd temple. People pray at the wall, pushing into the gaps, small pieces of paper on which they have written their prayers. Young boys were undergoing their Bar Mitzvah ceremony. The men were allowed into the section and to go up close to the wall and pray. This was a most emotional moment, very powerful and with a tangible atmosphere. From here we moved onto the Temple Mount and learnt about the Dome of the Rock [12] and the El Aska Mosque. Jerusalem is a Holy City special to Jews, Christians and Moslems. The link for all three religions is our common heritage in our father in faith, Abraham. We then travelled back to the Hotel, as the rest of the day was at our disposal. Some of the group went to visit the Holocaust Memorial and others visited around the Old City of Jerusalem to take in the atmosphere and to shop. After dinner some of the group went to the theatre to see a show of local songs, dance and culture. Friday 29th May After an early start we travel to the Old City and entering by St. Stephen's Gate we visit the Pools of Bethesda, where Jesus healed the man after 20 years of waiting (see John 5:2-9), and view the remains of the 5th century Byzantine church dedicated to Mary, who according to a 2nd century apocryphal writing, was born near the temple. The Crusaders used some of the stones of the ruins of this church to build the simple and lovely church of St. Anne, a really fine building. Named after the mother of Mary, we entered and prayed in the crypt. Leaving, we made our way to the Convent of Ecce Homo. This was built on part of the Antonia Fortress, the Roman Garrison guarding the Temple and one of the places the Roman Governor could reside. If Pilate held court here, then this was the 'praetorium' where Jesus was condemned to death. We saw the pavings of the Roman courtyard 'Lithostrotos' where Pilate and Jesus passed judgement on each other. We also saw signs of letters and figures scratched into some of the stones which suggest the guards played the game of 'King'. We then commenced the Via Dolorosa commemorating the journey of Jesus from the praetorium to Calvary. Two by two we carried the cross in silence through the streets [13], whilst the usual daily round of noisy shopping took place in the market streets about us. We read and meditated on the Stations of the Cross, as each one was marked out in a special way. We arrived at the Holy Sepulchre Church [14] where we celebrated Mass in the Blessed Sacrament Chapel at 11 a.m. After lunch we left to visit Abu Ghosh - possible site of Emmaus looked after by French Benedictines. Then on to visit Ein Karem - the home of St. Elizabeth, viewing the church of John the Baptist and the Church of the Visitation. Here we said the rosary, as the main part of the pilgrimage was coming to an end. We then returned to our hotel in Jerusalem [15]. Saturday 30th May We were really into the swing of early starts and it was off to celebrate Mass at 8 a.m. in the Church of All Nations at Gethsemane. As in all Masses we sang hymns and followed the liturgy prepared by Fr. Michael and Eveline before departure from Welwyn Garden City. After Mass we left for our excursion to Masada and the Dead Sea, travelling through the Judaen Hills. We passed the caves of Qumran where the Dead Sea Scrolls were discovered in 1947. Then at Masada we ascended by cable car to the summit [16], to view the remains of the Herodian Palace - an almost '5-star' quality hotel up 400 metres of rock in a total desert. We also saw the remains of a synagogue, and a chapel with mosaics built by Byzantine monks in the 4th century. Here Jewish zealots made a final stand against the Romans in 72 A.D. We were suffering in the sun on the mountain and were relieved to descend by cable car and join the coach to head for Ein Gedi, a resort by the Dead Sea for lunch and relaxation. In practice, the relaxation consisted of changing into our swimming gear and travelling to the edge of the Dead Sea to enjoy the experience of floating without effort - actually it proved difficult not to float. Here we joined in games of floating before moving off to plaster each other with mud. We were inspired by the fact that we would benefit from the minerals and become 'ten years younger' - we are still awaiting evidence of this! After a dance to dry out the mud, we showered under a sulphur shower and then fresh water before a swim in the 'normal' pool and a 15 minute dip into the sulphur pool. We finally showered, changed and relaxed into the journey to return to our hotel in Jerusalem. After dinner the group set off to the Armenian Cafe, to celebrate our last evening together. It proved to be a late evening, as a brave group went on to visit the Western Wall at midnight to see the Jewish families celebrating the Feast of Weeks. Sunday 31st May Today is Pentecost Sunday, Mass was celebrated at Bethphage, the village Jesus left to ride into Jerusalem on the first Palm Sunday. We completed here our novena for the parish. This day was also the Jewish Feast of Weeks, Shavout, their Pentecost to celebrate Harvest. Hence no El Al flight could take off before sunset. So we had an additional day to enjoy. Most people went to the Israel Museum and the Shrine of the Book in West Jerusalem, and to view the Model of Jerusalem [17] in the grounds of the Holy Land Hotel. Others chose to stay in the Old City and soak up the Festival atmosphere. At 5 p.m. we left Jerusalem [18] to head for Ben Gurion Airport at Tel Aviv for the flight home departing at 9 p.m. Exhausted we boarded the aircraft, and relaxed, being left with many wonderful memories of our visit, bringing home a variety of souvenirs and photographs. We were able, too, to have had a little insight into the situation in Israel, and to know that there is a real hope for peace in this country. But we need to pray that all groups will learn to live side by side peacefully and with respect for all cultures. Essentially, we have been profoundly changed by seeing and walking in the Land of Jesus, and reflecting on what its effect will be on our lives. Shalom! Compiled by John Rowland 18 June 1998 |