Day seven - Friday 25th October

We met around 7.15 a.m. with Catherine, who led us to St Peter's where we underwent the usual security check. Once we got past, we made our way into the Basilica, stopping at the Sacristy for Fr Michael to put on his vestments. Then we were led by an altar server to the Chapel of St Stephen and the Saints of Hungary in the crypt to celebrate Mass. How inspired this was, as the parents of Tom, one of our group, had left Hungary in 1956 during the uprising, and here we were ready to pray in this chapel. After another prayerful and inspiring Mass we returned to the hotel for breakfast.

The rest of the day was for the pilgrims to choose from, with an opportunity to revisit some of the churches in Rome, or else to shop for souvenirs, or join the optional tour to Lesser Known Rome. Those joining this tour visited the churches of S Clemente, S. Maria in Cosmedin and S. Sabina.

The Church dedicated to Pope St Clement (90-99), the third pope after St Peter. The present San Clemente was built around 1100. Below it is a 4th century church, and below that a Roman house in which it is believed Christians worshipped, until the 4th century church was built. The oldest level is thought to be the titulus Clementis, one of the first parish churches in Rome, and probably belonged to the family of Titus Flavius Clemens, consul and martyr and a contemporary of Pope St Clement. Set right next to a pagan temple, a Mithraeum or Temple of Mithras, it was one of the first churches in Rome.

A proper church was built after the Edict of Milan was passed in 313, allowing Christians to practise their religion openly. The first written evidence of this church comes from the pontificate of Pope Siricius (384-399), when a church dedicated to St Clement is mentioned. The older buildings were filled in, and a church occupying about half that area was built. The Mithraeum continued to exist until 395, when all pagan cults were outlawed. The property was taken over by the clergy of S Clemente, who filled it in and built an apse to the church. The church was severely damaged by the Normans under Robert Guiscard in 1084. It became unsafe, and the titular priest of the church, Cardinal Anastasius (cardinal c. 1099 - c. 1125) filled it in and had a new church built.

Santa Maria in Cosmedin - Our Lady "in Beauty". The church was probably first built in the 6th century as part of a diaconia, an institution helping the poor. It was rebuilt by Pope Adrian I in 782. Exiles from the iconoclast persecutions in the East in the 8th century were sheltered here. It owes its present state to 9th and 12th century rebuilding. Its slender campanile is well known, giving it an unusual but pleasing appearance. The church is also known as Santa Maria in Schola Graeca, Our Lady for the Greek Community. It was used by Greek merchants in Rome, and Greek monks used to serve here.

The name Kosmidion was used in the 8th century, probably a reference to the rich decoration. A sacristy and an oratory dedicated to St Nicholas were added in the 9th century, but they were removed in 1085 by Robert Guiscard. The church was given a Baroque appearance in the 18th century, but was restored to the original style at the end of the 19th century. Among the former titular deacons of the church is Reginald Cardinal Pole (died 1558), Archbishop of Canterbury during the English Reformation. The Greek traditions connected to the church have been renewed, as the church is now open to the Melkite community in Rome. This consists mainly of Lebanese Catholics under the Byzantine rite. Mass is celebrated in both Arabic and Greek.

Church dedicated to St Sabina, 2nd century martyr. The church was built in the 5th century, presumably at the site of the original Titulus Sabinae, a church in the home of Sabina who had been martyred c. 114. The tituli were the first parish churches in Rome. The exact date of the foundation is believed to be 422-423, and it is known that it was founded by an Illyrian priest named Peter. It was restored in the 8th and 9th centuries. In 1218, the church was given to the Dominicans by Pope Honorius III, who had approved the foundation of the order. They still serve the church, although since 1370 Santa Maria sopra Minerva has been their main church in Rome.

The Pope was of the Savelli family, whose palace was next to the church. St Dominic lived in the adjacent monastery for a period soon before his death in 1221. Among other residents of the monastery is St Thomas Aquinas. During the Renaissance and Baroque periods, some additions were made. In the 20th century, most of these were removed to restore the church back to its original state. The restorations took place 1914-1919 and 1936-1938, and were led by A. Muzo and P. Berthier. There is a shop in the monastery that sells postcards, including cards showing the panels in the front door, and religious objects and literature. It is of special interest to those interested in Dominican spirituality. Santa Sabina is the station church on Ash Wednesday. Since the time of Pope John XXIII, it is customary for the Holy Father to assist in person in the afternoon Mass on that day, when ashes are distributed.

We had lunch at choice, usually in local restaurants, preferably not too near St Peter's. The afternoon was an opportunity for people to visit places again, or indeed do some shopping. Marlis and John went to the Canossian Convent south-west of Rome to renew acquaintance with Sister Giovanna Arienti. Twenty-seven years ago she had taught with John in Cheshunt.

The group met for 5 p.m. ready to visit Trastevere, the part of Rome which is enclosed by an S-bend of the River Tiber and one of the best-preserved areas of Rome. The Trasteverini regard themselves in fact as the real line descendants of the ancient Romans. Here we saw a most picturesque part of Rome which is famed for its restaurants.

We visited Our Lady's in Trastevere Church. The church was one of the tituli, the parish churches of ancient Rome, known as Titulus Callisti. It is possibly the first church in Rome where Mass was celebrated openly. It was probably built by Pope Julius I (337-352), although tradition claims that it may have been built before 313, perhaps as early as soon after Pope Calixtus' death in 222. He was martyred near this place, and the titulus may have been named after his rather than the owner because it was originally built as a memorial chapel. It is believed to be the first church in Rome dedicated to the Blessed Virgin. It was rebuilt under Pope Innocent II (1138-1148), in the first years of his pontificate. He kept the basilica plan, at a time when the Gothic style was gaining popularity in Northern Europe. In the 1860's, it was restored with mixed results.

The internal granite columns are from the 12th century rebuilding, and are reused columns from ancient buildings. They are thought to be from the Temple of Isis or the Baths of Caracalla, although this is uncertain. Look closely at their capitals, and you will see the heads of female pagan deities. There were some beautiful mosaics particularly in the Lady Chapel. Here originated the mystery of the disappearing candles, taken just after we lit them by two young men who went into the sacristy with them, but all knowledge was denied by the sacristan! Answer - most likely would be lit in the morning to enable some candles to be lighted in the church from the early opening. Whilst in the church we celebrated Benediction together at the High Altar.

We were pleased to be joined by Andrew from Pax Travel who had been instrumental in putting the arrangements for our pilgrimage together over the last two years. We then made our way to the Il Fontanone restaurant where we enjoyed a fine meal with wine, and were joined by another Pax group from Burnley led by Anglicans. Some fraternization took place, even one of our group willing to transfer! Late at night we were taken by coach back to the hotel.