The Complete Diary

The Rome Diary 19th -27th October 2002

PRAYER FOR PILGRIMS

Our Father in heaven,
you are the aim and object of our lives,
and the goal of our pilgrimage,
for you have made us for yourself
and our hearts are restless until they rest in you.
Show us again the way along which our pilgrimage must travel,
for your son, Jesus, is the way that leads to you.
It is by following him, by identifying ourselves with him,
by suffering with him and rising with him,
that we know we are on the right path.
Help us never to stray from that path,
but to walk in the footsteps he has marked out for us,
as all the martyrs and saints have done before us. Amen.

Day one - Saturday 19th October

Pilgrims began to gather at Our Lady's Church, Welwyn Garden City, for the 10 a.m. Mass. Led by Fr Michael, we prayed for the success of our visit to Rome, the Eternal City. After Mass we boarded our coach and traveled to Gatwick Airport. After a short delay we departed by scheduled flight of Alitalia. It was a most comfortable and speedy flight to Rome and on arrival Catherine who was to be our tour guide for the pilgrimage met us immediately. We got aboard the coach, which was to transfer us to our hotel, the Della Conciliazione, only five minutes walk from St. Peter's. As we had been delayed, we were quickly allocated our rooms, and then went for Dinner in the nearby local restaurant. After the meal, a valiant group, led by Fr Michael, did a quick tour to St Peter's Square, and around the immediate surrounds of the hotel. This included checking on Mass times at the church of the Holy Spirit, and a walk across the Tiber and back, before returning to the Hotel for a good night's rest.

Day two - Sunday 20th October

We had an early breakfast and were somewhat entertained by the lady in charge of the Colazione - breakfast room - as it seemed rather limited fare. After breakfast it was decided that it seemed more appropriate to celebrate Mass with the group before allowing pilgrims to choose to attend the Papal Mass in St. Peter's Square. Catherine carefully arranged a Mass at short notice at the Church of the Holy Spirit!!

This was a delightful church and looked after by the Sisters of Our Lady of Mercy, the order that St Faustina belonged to. There in the church was a huge painting of the Divine Mercy, the devotions introduced by Fr Michael at Our Lady's Church, Welwyn Garden City, where Denny Lawlor, our leader for this visit, had made the shrine.

After Mass, pilgrims made their own choice of what to do, and many made their way to St Peter's Square where the Pope was due to celebrate Mass during which six exemplary Christians were to be beatified. They were two young Ugandan catechists, who were martyred, a Franciscan Bishop, a Priest, and two Nuns. Thousands had gathered for this celebration, and we were still able to find some seats at a distance from the altar.

This was a truly wonderful experience with the portraits of the six displayed on great banners hung from the front of St Peter's Basilica. Large TV screens relayed the ceremonies, with close ups of the Holy Father. Two young catechists from Uganda were among the 'beati', and representatives from Uganda took part in a colourful and musical offertory procession, the like of which few of us would experience too often in our lives. We were able also to participate in Holy Communion. Following the Mass the Angelus was recited by the Pope who then gave us all his solemn blessing. He then mounted the 'popemobile' and did a tour around the gathered congregation to the delight of the people. We left St Peter's Square elated to have been part of this very special Mass.

We took our lunch in local restaurants before preparing for the visits to the Basilicas of St Peter and then by coach to St Paul's outside the Walls. Both of these basilicas were built on the site of the martyrdom of these great apostles, killed in the first century. Prior to entering St Peter's, Catherine pointed out the features of the exterior and the apartments of the Holy Father. The amazing colonnade columns, designed by Bernini, also took our attention. Our guide for these visits was Francesco, who displayed his thorough knowledge of these churches and their history.

In St Peter's we were overawed at the size of the interior, the beautiful chapels, Michelangelo's Pietà, the tombs of St Peter and other Popes in the crypt and the amazing dome by Michelangelo, the latter being responsible for the façade as well. This latter could be reached by a lift and a staircase - for those with a head for heights. As we left we passed by the Swiss guards in their colourful uniform before gathering for the coach journey to St Paul's outside the Walls.

Erected by Constantine over the place of St Paul's martyrdom, it had been destroyed by fire in 1823 and completely rebuilt. Inside we stepped into a forest of 80 great granite columns set on a polished marble floor. We marveled at the glow of the mosaic apse, Christ attended by his apostles. To the right is a cloister with many antiquities, but it marks the fact that this is monastic ground, the headquarters of the Benedictines. Some took the opportunity to sit and listen as the monks sang Evening Prayer. Then we looked at the portraits of the Popes from Peter to John Paul II, with space for many more. We were told of the legend that goes to say when that space is full it will be the end of time!

We departed and travelled back to our hotel through downtown Rome. We passed by the Circus Maximus, in a valley below the Palatine Hill where the remains of imperial palaces could be seen. Although used for combats with animals, like the Colosseum, it was mainly used for horse racing, with or without chariots. On this way, too, Francesco pointed out the gasometer in passing since that represents a new phase in producing electrical energy since all nuclear generating facilities have been closed since Chernobyl. In response to our amazement of the traffic, he wryly pointed out that red traffic lights were regarded as a 'suggestion' that traffic might stop, and the 'zebra' crossings were merely decorations on the road!

We then returned to our hotel for dinner at the restaurant next door. Following the meal, Fr Michael again took a group on a ramble/exploration to the Piazza Navona. A great square surrounded by restaurants "not very far away"! Actually it wasn't and the group duly followed the clerical navigator, and enjoyed the great vista of the square that had been a 1st Century stadium for athletic contests. We found the Church of St Agnes, which is said to be on the site of the martyrdom of Agnes, a Christian girl, aged 13 years, who had refused to marry a pagan city governor in the 4th Century. The Church in Cricklewood, north London, is dedicated to her.

Now graced by three fountains, Piazza Navona is a popular rendezvous for diners and street artists. The group took over a section of one restaurant and imbibed in refreshments and biscuits before making our way back to the hotel via another route which took us past the Castel S.Angelo - a fortress built by Hadrian (he of Hadrian's wall in Britain) in 135 AD and later taken over by the Popes, and later became a garrison and then a prison. Now it is a museum. We safely negotiated our return to the Hotel.

Day three - Monday 21st October

We took breakfast in our hotel early so as to be in the queue for our visit to the Vatican Museums and Sistine Chapel. These were but a short walk away, but being the first day of the week, we were taken aback with the cut and thrust of the traffic around Vatican City. The scooters were the pick of the bunch and we marveled at their skills in negotiating their way to the front of the traffic and zooming away for the next mêlée around the corner.

The wait was some sixty minutes before we entered the museums. Then the group split up to take the museums at their own pace. Some headed straight to the Sistine Chapel, others took the museums at their leisure, admiring the many artifacts from history, Etruscan pots, huge tapestries, paintings, the Raphael room, frescoed maps, etc. Making use of CD players to hear commentary and descriptions was very useful. When entering the Sistine chapel, we were overwhelmed with the crowd there, and tried to take in the history of the chapel so beautifully decorated with scenes from the life of Moses and Jesus by Botticelli, and others. These together with the ceiling by Michelangelo and the Last Judgement on the wall behind the altar could just be marveled at. This is the chapel where the cardinals gather when a Pope dies in order to elect a successor.

After lunch locally, the group were at leisure for the afternoon, but Fr Michael led a small group to the Colosseum on foot, passing the monument to Victor Emmanuel II, the first king of a united Italy. En route we enjoyed seeing much of the ruins of the early Roman era in particular the Forum, which was the centre of public life. The Colosseum is the most important monument of ancient Rome, built between 72 and 81 AD. It was designed for public spectacles, seated 50,000 and was the scene of combats with animals and between individual or groups of gladiators. It was a huge building half a kilometre in circumference and rising to a height of 57m. We returned on the Metro to Ottaviano - a real experience of everyday life in Rome - and then prepared for a walking tour of secular delights of Rome.

Catherine briefed the group well on the schedule for the evening, and off we set to the Piazza Navona. This was the site of a 1st Century stadium built by the emperor Domitian and seating 30,000. Here the group enjoyed the scene and especially the mime artists which one or two of the group thought were very pretty statues - that is until they touched them! Photos proved the point. We went on to visit the Pantheon, founded as a Roman temple by Agrippa in 27 BC. It was consecrated as a Christian Church in 606. The dome is larger than that of St Peter's and is cast in concrete in a single piece. The diameter of this building is equal to its height. Now it is the church of St Mary of the Martyrs and contains the tombs of Raphael and the Kings of Italy. Around it is a piazza with attractive restaurants.

A short walk from here brought us to the Church of S Maria sopra Minerva. This is where we would celebrate Mass, and it was appropriate since the current titular priest of the church is H.E. Cormac Cardinal Murphy-O'Connor, Archbishop of Westminster, England. He was appointed on February 21, 2001. This made it very special; also St Catherine of Siena, (a Dominican nun and a patron of Italy along with St Francis of Assisi) is buried here. The church is the headquarters of the Dominican Order in Rome, and we had Mass in the chapel of St Dominic, using a beautiful jewelled chalice, guarded carefully by Brother Sacristan.

After Mass, we had time for a quick look around before it was onto the famous Trevi fountain. It is thought that it was designed by Bernini to enliven the wall of the Palazzo Poli, and completed in 1762. It brings pure water from the Acqua Vergine to the centre of Rome. Then we walked to L'Eau Vive Restaurant which is run by an Order of Missionary Sisters, where we enjoyed a wonderful dinner, and were serenaded by the Sisters, who also encouraged all the group to join in! We returned to the hotel by bus - another transport experience in Rome.

Day four - Tuesday 22nd October

After breakfast we gathered to take a coach to the catacombs of S Sebastiano. This was along the Via Appia and is now served by the Franciscan fathers. Fr Michael celebrated Mass here over the original tomb of St Sebastian. Then we had a guided tour by Maria, who led us down to the second level of this four level catacomb. We learnt that no-one was to be buried inside the city walls of Rome, so all who died, pagan, Jew or Christian, would be buried in such cemeteries. We saw Christian tombs, many bearing a symbol such as fish, anchor, lamb or ship, and elaborately made and decorated pagan family tombs as we made our way into the claustrophobic passageways beneath the ground in the limestone rock.

The bodies of St Peter and St Paul were moved here temporarily in the 3rd century. This was a really superb visit to a place we had heard about as children. The church above was quite beautiful and contains the tomb of St Sebastian, one of the traditional Seven Churches of Rome.

We returned to the hotel, passing the Church of Domine Quo Vadis, and lunched locally before boarding the coach once more to visit the church of Santa Croce. Here we met our guide for this visit, Flavia, who was most knowledgeable and came equipped with microphone and loudspeaker, which helped us to hear. This is the church of the Holy Cross in Jerusalem because St Helena went to Jerusalem to bring back soil for the foundations in the 4th Century. She is reputed to have brought back a piece of Christ's Cross, thorns from his crown, one of the nails, the INRI title and the crossbeam from the cross of the Good Thief. These are displayed in the chapel at the altar end of the left aisle. We prayed in the chapel for a while before seeing around the remainder of the church now served by the Carthusian monks.

Then it was a short walk to the basilica of St. John Lateran. We noticed the statue of St Francis in the Piazza, he is holding his hands up in front of him symbolising holding up a building. The Pope had dreamt of the church falling down and a beggar saving it from collapse.

On the façade of the basilica is written "Mother and Head of all Churches in Rome and in the World." It was on this hill that Constantine built the first public Christian church on the property taken from the Laterani family. The palace alongside was the official residence of Popes from the 4th to 14th Centuries, and even following the move to Vatican hill, the Lateran remains the site of the papal cathedra or throne. The early church was dedicated to the Saviour, but the adjoining baptistry has allowed John the Baptist to take over the name of the Church. The façade has fifteen colossal statues of Christ, John the Baptist, John the Evangelist and twelve saints acclaimed Doctors of the Church. Inside, between the plastered pillars of the nave, are the twelve apostles. Over the high altar is a gothic canopy said to contain the heads of SS Peter and Paul. The apse contains a mosaic showing Christ surrounded by angels and saints.

The Scala Sancta or Holy Stairs, which tradition says came from the Roman Praetorium in Jerusalem, are in a separate building and we visited these to pray and for some to ascend on their knees. This is especially so in Holy Week as a sign of sharing in the suffering of Jesus and those suffering in the world today. We walked back to Sante Croce Church where we collected the coach and returned to our dinner taken in a local restaurant near to the hotel.

On arriving in the Via Della Conciliazione, we were astonished to see a Jumbulance parked up by our stop! It turned out to be one of the very early vehicles operated by Across and sold to a group from Croatia who now took sick pilgrims all over Europe. As a number of our group had traveled to Lourdes on Jumbulances with Across, we were delighted to meet the organizer, the driver and the priest. After exchanging stories of our journeys with them, the photographs were duly taken to record this amazing co-incidence.

Day five - Wednesday 23rd October

At 7.15 a.m. we gathered in reception to be taken by Catherine just along the road Borgo Pio, where our hotel was situated, to the entrance to the Vatican. Immediately inside we entered the church of Sant' Anna, (Saint Anne of the Palafrieneri, Church dedicated to St Anne, mother of the Blessed Virgin Mary). This is the parish church of the Vatican, and it is not generally open to the general public. Here we joined in a Mass concelebrated by a Vatican Monsignor, Fr Michael and another priest. Mostly in Italian, but Fr Michael read the Gospel in English and said a few words. We prayed especially for Elsie and Denny Lawlor who had been married in this church some 33 years ago in April 1969. It was a beautiful church and regularly used by those working in the Vatican for morning Mass.

After breakfast, Catherine led the group up to St Peter's Square where the Papal Audience would take place today. The group were thrilled to hear "Our Lady Queen of Apostles, Welwyn Garden City" called out as pilgrims to greet the Holy Father. They watched as married couples were greeted and blessed by Pope John Paul II, as were various dignitaries and envoys.

Following lunch locally, some people went off on their own explorations and shopping. Others joined the tour to Ostia Antica, joining the coach with Catherine. We travelled to the ancient Roman port which is now 5 km inland, following the depositing of tidal mud from the Tiber. This city was founded in the 4th Century BC becoming the principal harbour for the import of goods from abroad. Now reclaimed after draining in the 1930's, the town shows more clearly the every day life of Roman times. Walls, gates, streets, dwellings, shops, baths, theatres, temples, warehouses, markets, gardens, even communal toilets are all open to view. The mosaics are a sheer delight, many displaying the trade of the occupants. We could just imagine how daily life was lived, and the way in which the town was laid out and organised. Mauro was our guide and enabled us to truly visualise the town of Ostia. He was so enthusiastic that he exceeded the allotted time, but we really enjoyed the visit.

Returning to Rome in rush hour we had our final meal at Il Pozzetto the restaurant next to the hotel. An early night was called for, so after a visit to a local hostelry, who was not really geared up to such a large tourist social group, we retired to gather strength for the trip tomorrow.

Day six - Thursday 24th October

We left Rome early this morning after breakfast and through the rush hour we drove north to the Umbrian town of Assisi. After a brief motorway stop, we soon came up to see Assisi nestling on the hillside. We passed through the town of Santa Maria degli Angeli, and ascended the winding road to park in the Assisi car park. We took the escalator up to the town and walked through to the Piazza del Commune. Catherine explained that our guide Eduardo would be meeting us after lunch.

So after a brief look at the shops, we continued downhill to the lower basilica of St. Francis, part of the impressive double church that was completed in little more than 20 years. Just outside we met Fr Philip Law, until recently the parish priest at Knebworth, an amazing co-incidence. Entering we went to the chapel of St Catherine, where Fr Michael celebrated Mass and during which we heard a little of the life of St Francis and his founding of the Franciscan Order. The Franciscan spirituality is founded on humility and poverty, to become Christ like and bring the joy of the Gospel to all whom we meet. As became usual in our Masses, we provided our own singing, especially today with Make me a Channel of Your Peace.

After we visited the tomb of Saint Francis in the crypt, we then viewed the frescoes in the lower Basilica by Simone Martini and Cimabue. We then visited the Upper Church where we viewed the repairs effected following the dreadful earthquake of 1997, and the marvelous frescoes, especially those by Giotto telling the story of Francis.

We made our way back up to the Piazza del Commune to have lunch and a further look at the shops, before walking to the basilica of St. Clare, which houses her tomb. There was a brief moment of anxiety when one of the group appeared missing. The good soul had remained down at the Lower Basilica waiting to be collected by friends - they had missed her and assumed she had gone ahead. A reconnaissance group made the journey to seek her out and found the lost sheep. She returned to the group safely and happily.

So Eduardo met us at the Church of St Clare, and outlined more of the history of Francis and Clare. Then into the Church and a visit to see the body of the saint incorrupt after some seven centuries. Here too was the chapel where St. Francis had received his education, and in another chapel we prayed before the 12th century Byzantine cross which spoke to Francis and commanded him to rebuild the crumbling church. All too soon we were making our way back through the town to board our coach. On the way we avoided the busy traffic of parents completing the school run!

Aboard the coach, we descended to the town of Santa Maria degli Angeli to see the Porziuncula, the chapel that St. Francis restored, and became the centre of his first community, and where he died. Some also took the chance to visit the rose garden where Francis is reputed to have rolled among the thorns to do penance and where the roses now remain thornless.

On our way home to Rome, we had a superb dinner with wine at the Da Carlo Restaurant near to Orte. This perfectly rounded off our day trip and we arrived at the hotel around 10.30 p.m. ready to rest, as tomorrow was to be another early start.

Day seven - Friday 25th October

We met around 7.15 a.m. with Catherine, who led us to St Peter's where we underwent the usual security check. Once we got past, we made our way into the Basilica, stopping at the Sacristy for Fr Michael to put on his vestments. Then we were led by an altar server to the Chapel of St Stephen and the Saints of Hungary in the crypt to celebrate Mass. How inspired this was, as the parents of Tom, one of our group, had left Hungary in 1956 during the uprising, and here we were ready to pray in this chapel. After another prayerful and inspiring Mass we returned to the hotel for breakfast.

The rest of the day was for the pilgrims to choose from, with an opportunity to revisit some of the churches in Rome, or else to shop for souvenirs, or join the optional tour to Lesser Known Rome. Those joining this tour visited the churches of S Clemente, S. Maria in Cosmedin and S. Sabina.

The Church dedicated to Pope St Clement (90-99), the third pope after St Peter. The present San Clemente was built around 1100. Below it is a 4th century church, and below that a Roman house in which it is believed Christians worshipped, until the 4th century church was built. The oldest level is thought to be the titulus Clementis, one of the first parish churches in Rome, and probably belonged to the family of Titus Flavius Clemens, consul and martyr and a contemporary of Pope St Clement. Set right next to a pagan temple, a Mithraeum or Temple of Mithras, it was one of the first churches in Rome.

A proper church was built after the Edict of Milan was passed in 313, allowing Christians to practise their religion openly. The first written evidence of this church comes from the pontificate of Pope Siricius (384-399), when a church dedicated to St Clement is mentioned. The older buildings were filled in, and a church occupying about half that area was built. The Mithraeum continued to exist until 395, when all pagan cults were outlawed. The property was taken over by the clergy of S Clemente, who filled it in and built an apse to the church. The church was severely damaged by the Normans under Robert Guiscard in 1084. It became unsafe, and the titular priest of the church, Cardinal Anastasius (cardinal c. 1099 - c. 1125) filled it in and had a new church built.

Santa Maria in Cosmedin - Our Lady "in Beauty". The church was probably first built in the 6th century as part of a diaconia, an institution helping the poor. It was rebuilt by Pope Adrian I in 782. Exiles from the iconoclast persecutions in the East in the 8th century were sheltered here. It owes its present state to 9th and 12th century rebuilding. Its slender campanile is well known, giving it an unusual but pleasing appearance. The church is also known as Santa Maria in Schola Graeca, Our Lady for the Greek Community. It was used by Greek merchants in Rome, and Greek monks used to serve here.

The name Kosmidion was used in the 8th century, probably a reference to the rich decoration. A sacristy and an oratory dedicated to St Nicholas were added in the 9th century, but they were removed in 1085 by Robert Guiscard. The church was given a Baroque appearance in the 18th century, but was restored to the original style at the end of the 19th century. Among the former titular deacons of the church is Reginald Cardinal Pole (died 1558), Archbishop of Canterbury during the English Reformation. The Greek traditions connected to the church have been renewed, as the church is now open to the Melkite community in Rome. This consists mainly of Lebanese Catholics under the Byzantine rite. Mass is celebrated in both Arabic and Greek.

Church dedicated to St Sabina, 2nd century martyr. The church was built in the 5th century, presumably at the site of the original Titulus Sabinae, a church in the home of Sabina who had been martyred c. 114. The tituli were the first parish churches in Rome. The exact date of the foundation is believed to be 422-423, and it is known that it was founded by an Illyrian priest named Peter. It was restored in the 8th and 9th centuries. In 1218, the church was given to the Dominicans by Pope Honorius III, who had approved the foundation of the order. They still serve the church, although since 1370 Santa Maria sopra Minerva has been their main church in Rome.

The Pope was of the Savelli family, whose palace was next to the church. St Dominic lived in the adjacent monastery for a period soon before his death in 1221. Among other residents of the monastery is St Thomas Aquinas. During the Renaissance and Baroque periods, some additions were made. In the 20th century, most of these were removed to restore the church back to its original state. The restorations took place 1914-1919 and 1936-1938, and were led by A. Muzo and P. Berthier. There is a shop in the monastery that sells postcards, including cards showing the panels in the front door, and religious objects and literature. It is of special interest to those interested in Dominican spirituality. Santa Sabina is the station church on Ash Wednesday. Since the time of Pope John XXIII, it is customary for the Holy Father to assist in person in the afternoon Mass on that day, when ashes are distributed.

We had lunch at choice, usually in local restaurants, preferably not too near St Peter's. The afternoon was an opportunity for people to visit places again, or indeed do some shopping. Marlis and John went to the Canossian Convent south-west of Rome to renew acquaintance with Sister Giovanna Arienti. Twenty-seven years ago she had taught with John in Cheshunt.

The group met for 5 p.m. ready to visit Trastevere, the part of Rome which is enclosed by an S-bend of the River Tiber and one of the best-preserved areas of Rome. The Trasteverini regard themselves in fact as the real line descendants of the ancient Romans. Here we saw a most picturesque part of Rome which is famed for its restaurants.

We visited Our Lady's in Trastevere Church. The church was one of the tituli, the parish churches of ancient Rome, known as Titulus Callisti. It is possibly the first church in Rome where Mass was celebrated openly. It was probably built by Pope Julius I (337-352), although tradition claims that it may have been built before 313, perhaps as early as soon after Pope Calixtus' death in 222. He was martyred near this place, and the titulus may have been named after his rather than the owner because it was originally built as a memorial chapel. It is believed to be the first church in Rome dedicated to the Blessed Virgin. It was rebuilt under Pope Innocent II (1138-1148), in the first years of his pontificate. He kept the basilica plan, at a time when the Gothic style was gaining popularity in Northern Europe. In the 1860's, it was restored with mixed results.

The internal granite columns are from the 12th century rebuilding, and are reused columns from ancient buildings. They are thought to be from the Temple of Isis or the Baths of Caracalla, although this is uncertain. Look closely at their capitals, and you will see the heads of female pagan deities. There were some beautiful mosaics particularly in the Lady Chapel. Here originated the mystery of the disappearing candles, taken just after we lit them by two young men who went into the sacristy with them, but all knowledge was denied by the sacristan! Answer - most likely would be lit in the morning to enable some candles to be lighted in the church from the early opening. Whilst in the church we celebrated Benediction together at the High Altar.

We were pleased to be joined by Andrew from Pax Travel who had been instrumental in putting the arrangements for our pilgrimage together over the last two years. We then made our way to the Il Fontanone restaurant where we enjoyed a fine meal with wine, and were joined by another Pax group from Burnley led by Anglicans. Some fraternization took place, even one of our group willing to transfer! Late at night we were taken by coach back to the hotel.

Day eight - Saturday 26th October

A slower start today as after breakfast we boarded our coach to visit the Basilica of St. Mary Major. Once again we were pleased to have Andrew with us for this day. This basilica is so called because of the eighty Roman churches dedicated to Our Lady, this is the Greatest (maggiore). Once again we entered a Church which is paved with beautiful cosmati work from the 12th Century, flanked by matching marble columns, and roofed in by a coffered ceiling gilded with the first gold brought from the Americas in 1500. There are some beautiful 5th Century mosaics between the ceiling and columns that continue onto the triumphal arch. These mosaics tell the story of the infancy of Jesus. In the apse has a mosaic from 13th Century showing Mary enthroned alongside Jesus who is crowning her.

In a recess in front of the altar we went down some steps leading to a casket containing five pieces of wood which it is claimed were part of the crib from Bethlehem. Next to this are the relics of St Jerome who spent years in the cave in Bethlehem where he translated the Bible into Latin for people of the West - known as the Latin Vulgate Bible. This church is in the care of the Redemptorist fathers. We noted that it has the highest campanile (built 1377) in Rome.

We walked from here to the church of S Prassede opposite St Mary Major where Mass was celebrated. For the Mass we had a beautiful chapel all to ourselves. In 817 AD, the pope had 2,300 bodies from the catacombs buried in this church. The apse mosaics are among the finest in Rome from around the 9th Century. The chapel of St Zeno has exquisite mosaics wall to wall, as well as part of a pillar brought here from Jerusalem said to have been used for the scourging of Jesus.

Like many of the relics, it is hard to be convinced of their authenticity. However, many have been accepted as genuine for many centuries, and their use is that they point us to Christ's life, suffering and death. In that way we are helped to appreciate the salvation won for us by Jesus.

We then boarded the coach to travel out of Rome by the Via Appia Nuova heading to the picturesque village of Castelgandolfo, where the Pope has his summer residence. We walked up to the main square, and after a coffee stop and a look around the shops, Catherine pointed us in the direction of a stunning view across Lake Albano to the Palazzola, the Villa of the English College.

On returning to the coach we continued on to the town of Frascati where we lunched in a vineyard restaurant serving traditional local fare. The meal was accompanied by a selection of the wines that make this region famous - this proving to be the best meal and setting of all our meals on this pilgrimage. Many took the opportunity to purchase some wine which we could take home with us. We left to go into the town of Frascati in order to view the cathedral. Henry Stuart, the brother of the Young Pretender, was bishop here for forty years. We entered to find the final part of a Baptism taking place. The town was very busy, and a political meeting was being held, though the display of classic cars seemed to have more attention from the locals and our group.

We then returned quietly to our hotel to commence packing our cases. Most of the group took time out for a last drink together in a local bar, and a final walk to St Peter's Square and down the Via Della Conciliazione.

Day nine - Sunday 27th October

D-day had arrived - departure day, and we were up with cases packed and off to early Mass this morning at a small local Church attended by a Franciscan congregation. This church of Mary Immaculate was a fitting place to pray for all our parishes prior to leaving Rome.

After breakfast, and leaving the smiling supervisor, we boarded the coach for our final journey, in glorious sunshine, out to Rome's Fiumicino Airport for our return flight to London by Alitalia. We said our farewells and expressed our gratitude to Catherine for all her care and kindnesses, checked in our luggage, and waited thoughtfully for our flight. This took off in time, and after a good flight we arrived at a wet and windy Gatwick, for a rocky approach and safe landing on time. We quickly found our coach, loaded up, and took the trip back to Welwyn Garden City arriving in rain! We dispersed into the gathering darkness to recover and reflect on these last nine days of our Pilgrimage to Rome.

Let us take away two thoughts first from the First Letter of St Peter 2:9-10

"You are a chosen race, a royal priesthood, a consecrated nation, a people set apart to sing the praises of God who called you out of the darkness into his wonderful light. Once you were not a people at all and now you are the People of God; once you were outside the mercy and now you have been given mercy."

And from St Paul's Letter to the Romans 12:1-2

"Think of God's mercy, my brothers and sisters, and worship him, I beg you, in a way that is worthy of thinking beings, by offering your living bodies as a holy sacrifice, truly pleasing to God. Do not model yourselves on the behaviour of the world around you, but let your behaviour change, modelled by your new mind. This is the only way to discover the will of God and know what is good, what it is that God wants, what is the perfect thing to do."

Praise the Lord for his goodness to us!

This diary has been compiled by John Rowland, and any errors, ommisions or corrections should be addressed to him.